Having arranged to visit Njobvu Cultural Village whilst sitting behind my computer in rainy Britain during the British "summer", I was so looking forward to the adventure but also half expecting a "Disney Experience" - it sounded too good to be true. 

Driving down from the north of Malawi we had a little trouble finding the place because it really is what it says on the tin: "Njobvu Village is a true Malawian village (no road signs), always happy to welcome guests. Guests support the orphans and elderly just by spending the night in a wonderful 'Lodge' (village) where you can learn a lot about Malawian life".

The aim of the village is to give visitors a real insight into what it is like to live in a regular village in that area and one truly gets to experience a way of life rather than take a few snapshots from your vehicle while journeying on to your destination. This is a destination in itself. And all the profits go directly to the community.

This project was started in 2001 and was created to introduce a form of revenue into the area that would encourage locals to stop poaching in the nearby National Park and introduce a sustainable source of income. There are eight villages from the area involved in the project, from which 2 people are chosen as representatives  of each village. These 2 representatives form part of a larger committee who run this initiative, with Enoch Chidothi who is the Manager.

You can reach Njobvu through Ulongwe, located south of Lake Malombe on the road between Liwonde and Mangochi. There are no signs from the main road but if you follow the signs to Mvuu Camp and Liwonde National Park (left off the M3 from Mangochi to Liwonde) , and accept the hand signals from the helpful villagers you will be sure to find your way. Mvuu Camp can also arrange a bicycle taxi to the village if you book with them.

Malawians have an incredible way of making you feel welcome, and we really were made to feel at home, even though we were a day late, due to some poor directions which we maintain were Jane's (our satnav) fault. Alfred Muhavu, our guide, came to meet us with his open smile and just as welcoming stance. 

We were shown to our mudbrick hut (which sounds far less aesthetically pleasing than it is) which is a spotlessly clean, minimalist structure which is cool and keeps the heat of the day out with it's walls made of mud and roof made of straw - perfect materials to withstand the African climate. Our beds were two very comfortable matresses on the floor, with mosquito nets to keep you safe from any annoying (and possibly deadly) mosquitos. We then had an introduction to my favourite area, the bathing house. 

Surrounded by walls of reed the shower is a beautifully crafted clay pot filled with water. Floating in the pot is a cup with holes cut into the bottom. You dip your cup in the pot to collect water and pour the warm (yes, our first warm shower in a while!!) water over yourself, which pours out through the holes. It's a magical experience doing this under the gaze of the stars, who in local lore are believed to be chiefs who have passed away (when a shooting star crosses the sky, it is believed that "another one bites the dust"). 

The toilet is a "long drop" in a little mud hut, perfectly private and comfortable. Once you have done your business you have the good fortune to wash your hands using a smaller version of your shower - a cup which you dip into a bowl of water and then hang on a nearby tree to allow the warm water to filter over your hands. I've never enjoyed washing my hands before but this was really a beautiful experience.

We then had the remarkable experience of going to the local traditional healer who is an old man wearing a white african fez and cotton shirt, who sat on a reed mat surrounded by phenomenally beautiful receptacles made of calabashes adorned with beads, bits of bark, the skin of a porcupine, some dried leaves and other mystical ingredients for remedies which unfortunately I cannot name due to my poor understanding of the local dialect (these traditional healers are not to be confused with "witch doctors" who use some rather dubious ingredients and claim to heal the sick and in so doing cause more damage than good).

We were invited to ask anything we wanted to and after learning about the various properties of the remedies, and how the spirits had come to this doctor to show him the way of healing, I managed to muster up a little bravado and ask this knowledgeable man if there was something he could help us with, to ensure this project of ours was a success. He said that he needed some time but would be able to help. We also then asked if he had any questions for us and were questioned about how in our culture we dealt with the problem of a couple unable to have children. It was a long and in-depth conversation in which we tried to be as generous with our basic knowledge on such things as possible, without being judgmental on how "our" culture deals with this phenomenon. 

We were then handed a matchbox filled with our potion - some bark of a tree, leaves and a segment cut from the porcupine skin. We were told to put this into our perfume and to make sure that we sprayed it on ourselves everyday after washing. We should also repeat a chant that says," I have been very blessed and thank you for my luck this far, I pray that I can enjoy this luck and pray for the same luck in the future". Just beautiful!

Then back to the central area and dinner was served. A plate of Nsima (made from maize flour) with soya pieces in a deliciously earthy sauce. There is not a lot of meat readily available in Malawi (perfect for a vegetarian like me) so the locals often live on a vegetarian diet. Cool water from the nearby bore hole was a welcome thirst quencher.

The smoky scent of the fire wafted through the air, and after dinner and under the gaze of the children who love to gawk and point and giggle and flirt, we moved toward the fire. Traditionally history is not written down in a book in Malawi (and many of her neighbouring countries) and the fire is an important part of gaining knowledge and wisdom from the elders.

This is where young and old come to talk freely - elders explain and generously part with their knowledge about the past and youngsters eagerly ask questions. This is where the younger generation now learn about the dangers of sexually transmitted diseases such as HIV and AIDS as well as other advice, regarding the growing of crops or whether to seek help from a traditional healer for various ailments or troubles.

We then heard the distant sound of a drum and moved toward the central area where a crowd had gathered to enjoy the wonderful rhythms and dances performed by the astounding local talent of musicians and the local theatre group. These songs and dances are utterly hypnotic, but not purely for entertainment. Again, songs are sung, beats are struck and words are chanted informing peers about the dangers of modern life in rural Malawi. Odes are also sung to visitors who have helped the village and shared valuable knowledge which villagers incorporate into their daily lives.

After some very fast and furious dancing (it took a little time to learn to enjoy the eager gyrations of 8-year-old boys!) and then some in-depth conversation about how the stars came to be and the mountains and lakes were formed, and a friendly visit from a rather large spider who literally tapped Ian on the bum, we went to sleep in our perfectly not-too-hot-not-too-cold home for the night.

The next dawn we were welcomed to the day by more bird song than I even remembered ever existed and had breakfast with Alfred; some delicious tea, cake (made from maize flour) and bread. Mango's were literally falling from every tree and the fruity scent makes you think you're in a bowl of fruit salad. Wonderful!

Enoch then came to meet us after his meetings the previous day in Lilongwe. We were intrigued by the motivated look in his eye and were then invited to take a look at the new school that was being built in the area. Nanthomba Lea School; an inspiring project, made possible by the generosity of the Wolstein Family, who had once visited Njobvu Village, and built in collaboration with the Malawi Ministry of Education.

We met Ethel Chinula, Vice School Principal and Dan Murray, School Staff Secretary who gave us a wonderful tour of the school. Nanthomba will open in 2009 and will have a fruit orchard, goats and chickens which will provide the students with a healthy diet. They are making their own compost by clearing land instead of burning it, and using the waste to make fertiliser. They collect rain water during rainy season in enormous drums which are then used to water crops during the dry months and have many more inspirational and realistic projects in the pipeline. 

To learn more about this satellite project of Njobu Village please visit www.helpmalawichildren.org.

Sadly, it was then time for us to move on and after saying our good byes to our new friends we drove off toward Mozambique, with a deep respect for this small community who are working incredibly hard to help themselves.

If you would like to learn more about this wonderful project (as I feel I have not adequately covered everything here) which helps a small community in Malawi and one which you can really take part in daily life, without just giving to charity please contact Enoch Chidothi +265 (0) 8 623530, enochchidothi@yahoo.com or have a look at their website at www.njobvuvillage.org.